My name is Erika Tu’avao and I currently live in Provo, Utah. I have always loved creating, but in summer 2019 I was finishing my last semester of college and I knew I needed a creative outlet to help with my anxiety- so I got some embroidery supplies, drew a design, and started stitching. I never imagined that I would become a full-time embroidery artist, but painting with thread has opened my life to so much positivity and beauty. The colors, textures, and scenes of nature continually inspire me to continue creating and I don’t think I will ever stop!
Instgram: etuaembroidery
]]>Painting can be done with so much more than paint, just ask Erika Tu'avao, an embroidery artist whose style has often been called 'thread painting.' Erika's distinct style is vibrant, detailed, layered, and really does appear much like a painting you'd see done with wet paint mediums.
We asked Erika how she got started with embroidery, as well as one of her most important tips. Before we dive into those videos, here are all of the supplies Erika used creating this stunning, embroidered sunset:
Check out the quick videos below from Erika herself to learn more about how she made this beautiful work of art!
(video one)
"This is exactly what I started my embroidery journey with: a multipack of embroidery floss and the straight stitch! You can really create anything with the right colors and straight stitches."
(video two)
"I always try to follow this embroidery rule! 3+ colors for every color, and I am always happier with how the landscape turns out. Let me know if you try it out!"
We hope these videos from Erika inspired you to add details to your embroidery, or encouraged you to pick up this exciting hobby! Happy crafting, and make sure to tag us and Erika on Instagram to show us what you created!
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Written By Vickie Howell for Arteza
Tassels are one of the easiest ways to use yarn to create a visually impactful home décor. Our wall-hanging is made with generously sized versions in an array of Springtime shades of Arteza worsted yarn. Make to give your space a pop of color — or even better, make several in different palettes to match every season!
MATERIALS
100% Acrylic Yarn, Worsted, Light Colors - Mini Pack
9” wide book or piece of cardboard
Scissors
24” copper pipe
11, Wooden beads
Large-eye blunt needle
1 1/2 yd rope
HOW-TO
STEP 1: Choose yarn colors
Pick 11 of your favorite shades of yarn
STEP 2: Make 11 Tassels
STEP 3: Add Beads
STEP 4: Tie Tassels to Pipe
STEP 5: Attach Hanging Rope
Hang and enjoy!
About Vickie Howell
Vickie is a mom of three, an award-winning broadcaster, author, designer & entrepreneur. Over a decade and a half, through various television shows, YouTube videos, online courses, conference tours, books, and her business, YarnYAY! – she’s had the privilege of teaching hundreds of thousands of stitchers new yarn-y skills. It’s her mission to empower people to lean into creativity by making DIY totally doable! Follow @vickiehowell
]]>Written By Vickie Howell for Arteza
Whether fashion, sewing, embroidery, crochet, or knitting is your thing, checkered prints and the quilted (pieced) look are a big trend right now, and I’m here for it!
The Patchwork cowl uses simple, stacked mitered squares, knit almost seamlessly, along with ALL 20 colors included in the Arteza Light Colors Multi Mini Pack, to create a gradient neck warmer. It’s graphic, pretty, and super-cozy. Hey, color-lover, what could be better?
MATERIALS
Arteza Light Colors Multi Mini Pack (100 % Acrylic, 36 yds each)
You’ll need 1 mini skein each in 20 colors (listed in order of use):
Additional Supplies:
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
10”/25 cm tall x 26”/ 66 cm in circumference
GAUGE
1 mitered square = 2 1/2”/6 cm
Note: gauge is only important for this project if you want to obtain the exact finished measurements.
ABBREVIATIONS (Click item for individual stitch tutorials)
PM = place marker
St(s) = stitch(es)
Rep = repeat
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
SPECIAL STITCH
S2kp: Slip next 2 sts together knit-wise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over just-knit st. – 2 sts decreased
PATTERN NOTES
DIRECTIONS
Following the Pattern Diagram and changing colors as desired, work ten rows of 4 mitered squares as instructed below.
Row 1, Square 1
With color of choice, CO 19 sts.
**Set-Up Row (WS): K9, p1, pm ON this st to mark as center st, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 1 st before marked center st, s2kp, pm ON this st to mark as center st, knit to end of row. – 2 sts decreased.
Row 2: Knit to marked center st, p1, pm ON this st, knit to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 until 3 sts remain. You will have completed 13 8 garter ridges.
Last Row (RS): S2kp.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the final st.**
Row 1, Squares 2-4
With color of choice and using Backward Loop method, CO 10 sts.
With RS facing, orient previous square with cast-on edges at right-hand and bottom sides. Pick up 9 stitches along the top edge of previous square. – 19 sts
Work from ** to ** as given for Square 1.
Row 2, Square 1
With RS facing, orient previous row with cast-on edges of squares at right-hand and bottom sides.
With color of choice, pick up 9 stitches along top edge of Square 1 from previous row, using Backward Loop method, CO 10 sts. – 19 sts
Work from ** to ** as given for Square 1.
Row 2, Squares 2-4
With RS facing and color of choice, pick up 9 sts along top edge of next square from previous row, pick up 1 st in corner between 2 squares, pick up 9 sts along side edge of previous square. – 19 sts
Work from ** to ** as given for Square 1.
Rows 3-10 Square 1
Work as for Row 2, Square 1.
Row 3-10, Squares 2-4
Work as for Row 2, Squares 2-4
FINISHING
Fold piece in half and seam short ends together, using a strand of yarn and tapestry needle.
Weave in ends.
About Vickie Howell
Vickie is a mom of three, an award-winning broadcaster, author, designer & entrepreneur. Over a decade and a half, through various television shows, YouTube videos, online courses, conference tours, books, and her business, YarnYAY! – she’s had the privilege of teaching hundreds of thousands of stitchers new yarn-y skills. It’s her mission to empower people to lean into creativity by making DIY totally doable! Follow @vickiehowell
]]>Antwanette Robinson has always loved art and creativity, with her most memorable gifts as a child being coloring books and art supplies. After sitting down with her children one night in 2020 and painting portraits with them, she fell even deeper in love with art. Starting with sketches and evolving into painting, Antwanette uses Arteza oil paint, acrylic paint, and craft paint in her vibrant portraits that portray the beauty of Black and Brown people.
In this artist profile, we learn from Antwanette how she became the ‘self-learning’ artist that she is, the joy she finds in learning new techniques, and her inspiration as a mixed woman of color.
I am a stay-at-home mom of five children turned self-taught (learning) artist. After a few weeks of studying artists with my children in the fall of 2020, my own art journey began. It felt like a precious gift given to me at a time when I truly needed it. My children were working on self-portraits, and one night my son Ziggy asked me to sit down and paint with them. That night I attempted to paint a picture of my daughter. Though I wouldn’t say it looked exactly like her, it sparked something in me. Every night for weeks, I’d attempt to sketch and paint a loved one or an interesting face I found online. Slowly I began experimenting with different mediums of paint. Acrylic, watercolor, gouache, and oil. Falling deeper and deeper in love with this new passion for painting. I am so thankful for the night my children invited me to sit down and create with them.
I have always been a lover of crafts and creative projects. Coloring books and art supplies were my favorite gifts as a child. Though artistic, I would never have imagined taking on the title “artist.” As I began sharing my own art and not only the kids’ art projects on Instagram, I was so encouraged and continue to be by the support and love from friends and family regarding my paintings. I use the term self-taught but definitely prefer the term “self-learning” as I learn something new every time I sit down to paint. That’s the beauty in it for me. Not only sharing what I create but also the joy of learning and trying new things, new ideas, and new techniques.
My art is a reflection of my love for colorful textiles and prints. I am inspired by indigenous and traditional clothing of many cultures. As a mixed Black and Mexican woman, I like to represent the beauty of Black and Brown people in my paintings while also weaving in a few things that represent my own personal story of growing up as a mixed woman of color. Arteza is our family’s favorite brand for art and schooling supplies. I am so grateful for the crazy wide range of Arteza supplies that I have been able to try in my journey so far. The products have made it so easy for a new artist to experiment and learn.
To see more of Antwanette’s work, visit her Instagram: @byantwanette
This curated collection of special of arts and crafts supplies features something for every creative, whether you're a painter, a crafter, or illustrator. Stock up on everything you need to craft with your loved ones this Valentine’s Day, start by browsing all of the must-have products featured in our Valentine's Day Collection
Valentines Creativity for That Special Someone
Are you looking for a fun activity to do on Valentine’s Day, or for the supplies to make your Valentine a personalized gift? Look no further than Arteza! Valentine's Day is the perfect time to show your gratitude for your loved ones with a handmade piece of art or craft. Make some time in your day to show love for yourself as well by trying out a new medium, learning new techniques, creating crafts of your own, or all of the above!
We’ve gathered our favorite blogs that capture the Valentine's Day spirit. Using the guidance of these how-to blogs, you’ll be able to draw a whimsical cherub using Inkonic pens, paint a vibrant and realistic rose with watercolor paints, and how to make several different handmade cards. We’ve included all of the amazing products used in each blog, and of course you can visit our curated Valentine's Day Collection full of premium supplies to shop if you’re feeling inspired to create even more!
Cherubs can be found in a wide variety of artwork, especially historically in Greek and Roman works. Cherubs are known as angelic beings who represent sacred love. Outside of religious realms, cherubs symbolize romantic love—you likely see cherubs reappearing around February 14th every year. If you have a background in art history, or frequent museums, you’re likely very familiar with cherubs’ presence in fine art. Now that we’ve taken the time to acknowledge the iconic imagery of cherubs within fine art, let’s create our own depictions of these magnificent beings! Keep Reading.
From Van Gogh’s sunflowers to O’Keefe’s lilies, flowers have always been a popular subject for both representational and abstract artists. And it’s no wonder, since flowers come in so many shapes, sizes, and colors. Adding a flower painting to a home’s décor instantly livens it up with a permanent bouquet. If you’ve always wanted to know how to paint flowers or improve your flower drawing and painting, we’ve got some helpful tips! Keep Reading.
Hearts, chocolate, flowers—they’re everywhere during this time of year because of Valentine’s Day. Whether you’re celebrating with your significant other, gal pals, or your family, you can come up with some creative ways to show them that you care. What makes a DIY Valentine’s Day card a unique gift is the fact that you can customize the entire card to what your special someone likes! Keep Reading.
Sending and receiving Valentine’s Day cards has been a tradition since 1415. From the beginning, Valentine’s cards were a big hit and it’s easy to understand why—who doesn’t like getting a card saying how much you’re loved? But, as much fun as they are to buy and send, a great way to show how much you love someone is by making handmade Valentine’s Day cards. Keep Reading.
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Cherubs can be found in a wide variety of artwork, especially historically in Greek and Roman works. Cherubs are known as angelic beings who represent sacred love. Many believe that cherubs hold the highest angelic order in heaven, making them closest to God. Outside of religious realms, cherubs symbolize romantic love—you likely see cherubs reappearing around February 14th every year. If you have a background in art history, or frequent museums, you’re likely very familiar with cherubs’ presence in fine art.
Now that we’ve taken the time to acknowledge the iconic imagery of cherubs within fine art, let’s create our own depictions of these magnificent beings!
Draw a simplified sketch of a baby angel in a cloud with wings. Start by creating shapes to represent the head. Draw a circle, then add light marks to visualize where the centerline of the face is, to then build on from. Lightly sketch vertical lines for the nose and mouth. Then add marks to show where the eyes will sit. Below the angel’s head, sketch the hands, start by lightly drawing two ovals with small circles inside of them. From there, add the fingers, hands, and arms outlines. Next, add the cloud formation and wings.
Add cheeks and an ear to your angel’s head. Refine the nose, mouth, and eyebrow area further. Tighten any areas that need more definition. Add fine details to the angel’s fingers and arms. Be sure to add a little extra baby fat around the angel’s wrists. Bring more formation to the cloud in your sketch before moving on to the next step.
Fun Fact: Cherubs appear numerous times in the Bible.
Add formation and feathers to your angel’s wings, try your best to keep your wing’s details looking as symmetrical as possible. Next, add a head of hair to your angel. Use small curved lines to indicate the natural flow/growth pattern of hair. Take the time to better establish your angel’s facial features at this stage. Once everything’s looking good remove any unnecessary lines or marks with an eraser.
Fun Fact: Cherubs are also known as cherubim.
Time to bring your cherub to life with the help of our Inkonic Fineliner Pens! Establish your source of light, then use A121 (golden) to add shadows to your angel. The suggested source of light for this drawing is the upper right corner of your paper. Use A143 (blue) to add detail to your angel’s feathers—create feather patterns coming from each feather’s root. Lightly and sparingly use the same color to add linework to the cloud. When coloring the cloud be sure to leave a highlight between your shadow and your outline, this will make your cloud appear more realistic.
Using A102 (brown), outline your illustration. Use this color to add to your already established shadows. Try your hardest to be intentional with your line work, since this is the darkest color, any mistake is more likely to show.
Fun Fact: Raphael’s painting “The Sistine Madonna” (1512) features two cherubs that have since become the world-famous image of cherubs, and even some of the most famous angels in art history.
Add more saturation to your design by accentuating shadows with A121 (golden), A143 (blue), and A102 (brown). Be sure to leave the areas with the strongest highlight slightly blank to allow for flawless color transitions. The contrast of the brown shadows and outline against the yellow and blue shading results in a truly beautiful color scheme!
Wow! What a stunning illustration! Thank you for taking the time to create alongside us using our Inkonic Fineliner Pens - Set of 120, our Watercolor Book, and a pencil. Our Inkonic Fineliner Pens deliver impressive results to make creating detailed illustrations with vibrant colors an enriching experience. Explore all of the endless crafts you can make with our Valentine's Day Collection—and be sure to share your work with us on social media using #Arteza, we can’t wait to see what you create!
Sending and receiving Valentine’s Day cards has been a tradition since 1415. From the beginning, Valentine’s cards were a big hit and it’s easy to understand why—who doesn’t like getting a card saying how much you’re loved? But, as much fun as they are to buy and send, a great way to show how much you love someone is by making handmade Valentine’s Day cards.
Creating a card to wish your sweetie a Happy Valentine’s Day is a labor of love that’s a simple way to show how much they mean to you. Plus, homemade cards make special keepsakes, too. That’s why we asked one of our artists to put together this video. Now, you can make cards for all the people you love without having to be a professional designer or a highly skilled cardmaker. And, you won’t need a lot of supplies—just some paper, felt, scissors or craft knife, hot glue, and Arteza TwiMarkers.
Before you begin, here are a few suggestions. First, it’s important to create your card on heavyweight paper, especially for this particular project. Since a lot of little rolls of felt will be glued to the front of this card, the paper needs to be strong enough to hold their weight. For this reason, the artist in the video is using 140lb (300 gsm) watercolor paper, which is a grade of paper known as “cardstock.”
The second suggestion is to read through the steps and then watch the video before making the card. By doing this, you’ll be better prepared for each new step.
Cut ½” off one side of your paper. Make sure the paper is horizontal in front of you and use the ruler to find the center. Next, cut a small notch at this center point. Use the back of the craft knife or tip of the scissors to lightly score a line from the notch down the center of the paper. This is the fold line and will make it much easier to get a nice, even fold. Fold the card and press it flat.
Lightly sketch a big heart on the front of your card.
Take the ½” wide strip you cut off the side and cut it in half at the center for a 6” long strip. Then, fold in each edge, so that once placed across the base of your heart, it will stand up.
Place it aside for now; you’ll be using it at the end.
From each sheet of felt material, cut diagonal strips 3–6 inches long. Try to make each strip about 0.5–0.7 inches at the top and about 0.2-0.3 inches on the bottom. For this card, the artist cut nearly 100 strips.
TIP: The longer the strip, the wider your roll will be. Keeping this in mind, vary the lengths so you’ll have several different size rolls.
Now, starting at the strip’s widest end, roll it up to form a tiny spiral roll. Roll it in such a way to make one side flat and the other raised up a bit. (They will resemble tiny cinnamon rolls.) To hold it closed, hot glue the end to the roll and put a straight pin through it. Let dry for about five minutes. After completely dry, remove the pin.
HINT: Using a straight pin will also help keep your fingers from getting burned by the hot glue.
Once you have all your little spirals made, hot glue each one inside your heart sketch. This is when you can get really creative! As you can see in the video, the artist didn’t just line them up. She randomly placed varying sizes and colors in the heart. She then filled in the empty spaces with the appropriate size spiral.
After you’ve completely filled in the heart, it’s time to bring back the paper ribbon you created earlier. Write a message in between the folded edges. The artist wrote “Be My Valentine,” but you can put any message you want. By using the TwiMarker you can make your lines as thick or thin as you like..
TIP: If you don’t like your handwriting, download a free font from the internet or trace words created on your computer.
Next, cut little v’s on the ends to make it look like a ribbon banner. Put the ribbon over the bottom of your heart and glue it in place.
Write a special message inside and you’re finished!
You’ve done it! You’ve made a very special Valentine’s Day card for your sweetie! You can follow how our artist did it or create your own, with your loved one’s personality in mind. You can use all one color of felt or try spelling a word using differently colored spirals. There are so many ways to have fun making Valentine’s cards! We hope you enjoyed watching this tutorial as much as we enjoyed making it for you! Don't forget to check out our entire Valentines Day Collection for limitless creativity!
Just follow along with the video and you’ll create a card you’ll love!
Hearts, chocolate, flowers—they’re everywhere during this time of year because of Valentine’s Day. Whether you’re celebrating with your significant other, gal pals, or your family, you can come up with some creative ways to show them that you care. Conveying that you put thought and time into creating something special for your beloved is the most important aspect of any good Valentine’s gift. One iconic Valentine’s Day gift idea is a homemade card. What makes a DIY Valentine’s Day card a unique gift is the fact that you can customize the entire card to what your special someone likes.
Use their favorite colors or draw their favorite things inside the card—it’s an opportunity to show your love through art. We’ve come up with two Valentine’s Day card ideas you can use to make unforgettable gifts for your loved ones. View these instructions as a helpful guide, and feel free to add your own twist.
Drum roll please...now it’s time to gather your art supplies and get your crafting space ready—love is in the air, so let’s start crafting!
Step 1: Start by sketching out a heart on a piece of spare paper with a pencil. To do this, fold the paper in half and draw half of a heart shape (make sure the heart will be able to fit on the card).
Step 2: Cut out the heart shape with scissors. If it happens to be too big for the card, simply trim the edges until you have a heart that will fit. Keep in mind you’ll want a little bit of space on all sides of the heart.
Step 3: Trace the heart shape onto the back of the front of the card. Next, take your pencil and sketch some random shapes and swirls inside the heart. Place your card onto the cutting mat, then use a sharp craft knife to carefully cut out the designs you sketched.
Note: Cutting out the designs on the mat will protect your surface from cuts or scratches.
Step 4: Once your design is cut, set it aside. Don’t worry if certain parts of the design are not perfect, you’ll be gluing a backing piece to the delicate design to hold everything together. To create the backing piece, cut out a separate piece of paper that covers the whole heart (this can be watercolor paper, marker paper, or whatever paper you like).
Step 5: Create a colorful design on this separate sheet of paper with the medium of your choice. We used Real Brush Pens, Watercolor Half-Pans, and EverBlend Ultra Markers to create three different backing papers. To create cool designs, we used water and salt when painting with the Real Brush Pens and Watercolor Half-Pans. In order to create the same tie-dye effect with the EverBlends, we colored the sheet, then dabbed on different spots on the sheet using a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.
Step 6: Let the colorful design dry completely, then apply glue around the edges of your design. Glue the design to the back of the front of the card, then let the glue completely dry. Once everything is dry, close the card and admire the colorful patterns peeking out from behind your cut-out design.
Step 1: Draw a small heart onto a separate sheet of paper (you can fold the piece of paper in half to help). Cut out the small heart and unfold it.
Step 2: Next, fold your cardstock. You’ll want to fold about a quarter of the page “hot dog” style and you can use a bone folder to help make a crisp crease. Only folding a quarter of the page will make sure you don’t waste a whole sheet of cardstock. This way you can use it for another project in the future!
Step 3: Trace your heart onto various colors of cardstock and cut them out. Gently unfold the paper to reveal the heart (don’t completely flatten them, we want them to have this 3-D effect).
Step 4: Decide what kind of design you’d like to use with your folded hearts. You can do a cascade of them, a bouquet of flowers, or just place them randomly like polka dots. We made them into a little balloon bouquet. You can do this by drawing a few lines that come together towards the bottom using a black EverBlend. Make sure to leave room at the top for your heart balloons.
Step 5: If you’re doing the balloon bouquet like us, take a chenille stem and tie it into a little bow. Glue the bow to where all your lines meet so it looks like they’re tied together.
Step 6: To attach your little heart “balloons” to the card, place hot glue along the fold of the heart. Quickly place the folded edge onto the card (the whole heart shouldn’t be glued down). Attach as many hearts as you like.
Step 7: Finish by writing a sweet message inside, then step back and enjoy your beautiful finished card.
For the special note inside the card, you can write as little or as much as you want. Also, don’t be afraid to get really creative with it. Feel free to add glitter, sequins, or any other fancy decorations that are speaking to you. Cards can be a great way to give someone something special that is a forever keepsake. Don't forget to check out our entire Valentines Day Collection for limitless creativity!
]]>How to draw a rose? From Van Gogh’s sunflowers to O’Keefe’s lilies, flowers have always been a popular subject for both representational and abstract artists. And it’s no wonder, since flowers come in so many shapes, sizes, and colors. Adding a flower painting to a home’s decor instantly livens it up with a permanent bouquet.
If you’ve always wanted to know how to paint flowers or improve your flower drawing and painting, we’ve got some helpful tips. Our artist has gathered some of her favorites for creating a realistic rose painting. For her 3D rose, she used Arteza Premium Watercolor Paint, which we recommend for their vibrant colors. We also suggest watching the video before starting, to have all the tips beforehand.
You’ll get the most realistic rendering by using an actual rose instead of a photograph of one. Painting the rose from “life” allows you to see its true colors and shapes, which can significantly change in a photograph. If you don’t have access to a rose garden, purchase a single rose from a florist. Photographing the rose can help as a resource while painting. It’s essential to get a good angle that shows its petals and texture. Our artist took her photo from the top looking down on the rose.
If you prefer, print the image of the rose to use as a reference for your initial drawing or to transfer to your paper. Or, draw it directly onto your paper using the image on your computer’s screen as a guide. Keep the image nearby as a guide for accurately capturing shapes and shadows.
Use a hard pencil , such as an HB or 2B, to make a light sketch. Using a hard pencil will ensure the sketch will be light enough not to be seen through the transparent watercolor. The artist in the video started her drawing from the outer contour of the rose.
To place the flower’s petals, start from its center and draw the petals to the edges, while continuously looking at the reference image to ensure each shape and placement is correct. To help remember which petals will be in shadow, add a few pencil lines on those to darken.
To make sure your paper doesn’t warp or bend once the wet paint is applied, tape it to your work surface or a piece of cardboard with masking tape. Skip this tip if your paper is heavier than 140lb/300 gsm.
For the most realistic rose, choose only the colors you actually see. If you do choose to use more colors, be careful you don’t over mix them or they’ll turn muddy. Don’t rush to use as many colors as you can or you’ll be disappointed in the end result.
It’s always best to use a palette. The palette allows you to add enough water to your paint to get the best consistency, as well as create new hues by mixing different hues together. To see how this works, take a look at this blog. If you don’t have a palette, use a plate or tile instead.
How colors look on the palette can vary from how they will appear on your paper. Making a swatch chart, as our artist did, before you start the painting will help you see how the colors look on paper and help you easily decide at a glance the right one to use.
The artist uses the “wet-on-wet” technique, meaning she wets the surface of the rose before applying the paint. This gives the rose a soft texture. She begins at the inner area of the petal with a light layer of pigment, then comes back with a slightly darker shade for the areas in shadow. She blends pale and dark shades to give the most contrast to the petals, which helps separate one from another.
If your subject is painted in cool tones, the shadows should be in warm ones. If the subject is painted in warm tones, such as this rose, then the shadows should be in cool ones. This is why the artist added purple and ultramarine to her shadows.
The background should not be more predominant than your subject. To make this background lighter than the rose, the artist used water to make the paint more transparent and applied it after wetting the paper first.
Try to leave a little space between the petals to make the flower look fuller. If you’re afraid of accidentally combining petals, don’t worry, this can easily be corrected by using a dry brush to “lift” the pigment from the paper. Other ways of hiding mistakes include using white chalk to stop the watercolor from bleeding to the petal’s edge or using white watercolor paint over the area once the previous layer has dried.
Even if you prefer other subjects to paint, keep practicing painting flowers. Achieving a realistic flower is a good challenge for both beginning and experienced artists. It allows you to work on significant elements such as proportion, scale, form, and texture. You’ll find that becoming good at drawing and painting flowers will help you realistically capture other subjects as well.
There you have it—some handy tips that will help create realistic flowers. These tips will work with whatever flower you want to paint. You can find all kinds of flowers to add to your art at your local botanical garden, arboretum, or even your neighbor’s garden. To see how our artist used all these tips, watch this video and get inspired, and don't forget to check out our entire Valentines Day Collection for limitless creativity!
Written by Vickie Howell
The first thing that comes to mind when I think of Arteza is colorful swatching with their paints and markers. There’s little more visually satisfying than scribble-rows of color-upon-color! Creative play in crochet, isn’t much different, especially when working with a box of skeins in 20 different shades, like the new Multi Mini Packs.
This project is an ode to paint-play and a nod to the current patchwork and checker-print trend that’s huge in the textile world. Have fun with your Paintbox!
MATERIALS
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approx 11” /28 cm x 6 1/2” / 16.5 cm
GAUGE
12 sc x 16 rows = 4”/10 cm
Note: gauge is only important for this project if you want to obtain the exact finished measurements.
ABBREVIATIONS (Click item for individual stitch tutorials)
St(s) = stitch(es)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Note: Always join a new color by pulling new color through the last 2 loops of the last stitch in the previous color. Always leave colors not in use at the WS of the work: on RS rows this will be the back, on WS rows this will be the front.
DIRECTIONS
Bag panels (Make 2):
With A, ch 31.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in every ch to end. Join B in. Turn. — 30 sts
Cut A.
Row 2 (RS): With B, ch 1 (does not count as st here or throughout), sc in first st and next 5 sts. Join C, sc in next 6 sts. Join D, sc in next 6 sts. Join E, sc in next 6 sts. Join F, sc in last 5 sts. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): With F, ch 1 , sc in first st and next 5 sts. With E, sc in next 6 sts. With D, sc in next 6 sts, With C, sc in next 6 sts. With B, sc in last 6 sts.
Rows 4-9: Repeat Rows 2-3, three times more.
Cut Colors B, C, D, E, & F. Join G.
Row 10 (RS): With G, ch 1 sc in first st and in next 5 sts. Join H, sc in next 6 sts. Join I, sc in next 6 sts. Join J, sc in next 6 sts. Join K, sc in last 6 sts. Turn.
Row 11 (WS): With K, ch 1 , sc in first st and next 5 sts. With J, sc in next 6 sts. With I, sc in next 6 sts, With H, sc in next 6 sts. With G, sc in last 6 sts.
Rows 12-17: Repeat Rows 10-11, three times more.
Cut Colors G, H, I, J, K. Join L.
Row 18 (RS): With L, ch 1, sc in first st, and next 5 sts. Join M, sc in next 6 sts. Join N, sc in next 6 sts. Join O, sc in next 6 sts. Join P, sc in last 5 6 sts. Turn.
Row 19 (WS): With P, ch 1 , sc in first st and next 5 sts. With O, sc in next 6 sts. With N, sc in next 6 sts, With M, sc in next 6 sts. With L, sc in last 6 sts.
Rows 20-25: Repeat Rows 18--19, three times more.
Cut Colors L, M, N, O, P. Join A.
Rows 26-27: With A, ch 1, sc in first st and every st to end. Turn.
Fasten off.
Seam Bag:
Stack both pieces, with WS facing each other, join A at a top edge and through both layers of fabric.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly along first short side, 3 sc in corner, sc evenly along bottom, 3 sc in corner, sc evenly along second short side. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, [sc in each st to corner, 3 sc in corner] twice, sc to end.
Fasten off.
Add Zipper: (See video tutorial here.)
Either use tapestry needle to blanket stitch evenly around zipper or join yarn with a small, pointy crochet hook and sc evenly around the zipper, taking care to work 3 sc at corners. Fasten off.
Line zipper up with bag top, and whip stitch or single crochet the zipper to the top edge of the bag. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Optional: Make pompom. Tie to zipper pull.
About Vickie Howell
Vickie is a mom of three, an award-winning broadcaster, author, designer & entrepreneur. Over a decade and a half, through various television shows, YouTube videos, online courses, conference tours, books, and her business, YarnYAY! – she’s had the privilege of teaching hundreds of thousands of stitchers new yarn-y skills. It’s her mission to empower people to lean into creativity by making DIY totally doable! Follow @vickiehowell
Vickie is a mom of three, an award-winning broadcaster, author, designer & entrepreneur. Over a decade and a half, through various television shows, YouTube videos, online courses, conference tours, books, and her business, YarnYAY! – she’s had the privilege of teaching hundreds of thousands of stitchers new yarn-y skills. It’s her mission to empower people to lean into creativity by making DIY totally doable!
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Decided to start your soft crafts journey, but not sure where to begin? You’ve come to the right place! One way to narrow your choice down is to decide if you want to start knitting or crocheting. Now, this doesn't mean you have to stick to your choice, or only pick one of them to learn! However, it’s helpful to educate yourself on what craft sounds more appealing to you so you know what to look for.
Difference between Knitting & Crochet
The biggest differences between knitting and crocheting are the tools and processes.
Knitting uses two long needles to form loops with yarn, moving a set of loops from one needle to another. This is called a stitch, and they are all held on the needle. Since there are several active stitches, if one dropped, the whole row could unravel. Crochet, on the other hand, uses yarn and a single hook to create knotlike loops together directly on the hook, and most of the time there is only one active loop. This makes crochet a bit easier and potentially less intimidating for beginners, but every creator is different!
A knitting stitch and a crochet stitch appear different and each have a unique structure. Knitting is more loop-like, resulting in a piece that can generally stretch more; which is why items that are capable of stretching like sweaters and socks are extremely popular for knitting. Whereas crochet appears to be more knot-like and not as stretchy, which is why a lot of crochet projects are items that you want to keep their shape like blankets, table runners, etc. Of course, this is just a few common uses; as with anything creative, there are often ways to achieve your desired look, regardless of the materials you have!
Now that you have a bit more info on the process, let’s get you set up for your first soft crafts project!
Step 1: Choosing the Correct Tool
Most yarn products (including ours) have size suggestions of knitting needles/crochet hook on the packaging, as well as the stitches needed to make a gauge (the number of stitches in one inch of fabric). As these are only recommendations, if your knitting pattern has different guidelines for the gauge it is important to create a test swatch. Obtaining the correct gauge is more important than the tool that gets you there.
Crochet Hook - The tool that is used for creating your crochet patterns. These come in various sizes and each size is suitable for specific weights of yarn. US sizes are letters, while UK are metric. A yarn label will not always have both, so it is helpful to know how to convert if needed. Both the pattern you're working from and the yarn suggest sizes of crochet hooks. As mentioned above, it's always best to create a gauge so you know if you need to adjust your tools.
Knitting Needles - The correct size of knitting needles are essential to your project. Different countries go by different sizes, so it's important to know what size you need, and be able to convert sizes if needed. Most countries also use the metric system, so mm (millimeters) is a common measurement. Knitting needles can come in as small size as 1.0 mm (US size: 00000 ) and as large as 25.0 mm (US size: 50) Lastly, the size of the needle will affect your stitches, as large needles with create bigger stitches per inch (and more loose items) and smaller needles create more stitches per inch (a more dense item) As always: save time, check your gauge.
Step 2: Choosing your Yarn
Now that you’ve decided what craft you want to try first and have the right tools, it's also important to get to know the medium you’ll be using: yarn. The great thing about yarn is its versatility. Yarn is used for both knitting and crochet, so if you’re still undecided on which craft to start, you can always try both without needing a different fabric! There are a few different types of materials, weights, and important terms. Let's break down some things to look for when deciding on a fabric!
Fabric Type
There are three main sources of yarn:
Each of these sources can have even more variety among them! Merino wool for example is a wool that comes from the Merino sheep and has a softer feel compared to other wools. There are many other types of yarn fibers not on this list, and there is also yarn which blends several fiber sources together. Ultimately, the thickness, qualities, and feel of the yarn will be a big determining factor for your project!
Arteza carries crochet thread and acrylic worsted yarn.
Fabric Weight
Each size of yarn has a suggested use, and recommended tools to achieve the best results. As always, these are recommendations, so make sure you create a test swatch!
Source: Craft Yarn Council's www.YarnStandards.com
Now that you are more familiar with basic differences between knitting and crochet, yarn sources, and weights, you can start looking at patterns! Patterns will list everything you need to know about the yarn, tools, skill level, and measurements. Using these yarn basics, you’ll know exactly what to look for, and you’ll be able to determine what you like (or even don’t like!) about a potential pattern.
Happy crafting! And don't forget to send us a picture of your first design, or tag us on Instagram!
]]>Are you looking to start knitting or crocheting and are trying to wrap your head around all these new terms? Look no further than this quick (and simple!) guide. We’ll be going over basic materials, tools, and names of common techniques to get you started. Once you’re an expert on the basics, you’ll be creating elaborate stitches and exploring other techniques in no time!
Cast-On - The beginning step of your knitted work where you create the first stitches on your needle or crochet hook. Can also be called bind on
Cast-Off - An essential step to the end of your work. This is the last stitch that ensures your project doesn't unravel. Can also be called bind off
Crochet - Crochet uses yarn (or crochet thread) on a single hook to hook the loops together directly on the piece, and most of the time only one loop is active
Crochet Hook - The tool that is used for creating your crochet patterns. These come in various sizes and each size is suitable for specific weights of yarn. US sizes are letters, while UK are metric. A yarn label will not always have both, so it is helpful to know how to convert if needed. Both the pattern and the yarn suggest sizes of crochet hooks. If the pattern and the suggested size on the label do not match, make sure to create a gauge (see below)
Crochet Thread - Thinner than yarn and creates finer details, making it perfect for doilies and more intricate projects. It's important to note that for crochet thread, the bigger the number the smaller the size of the thread (Whereas for yarn the bigger the number, the thicker the tread)
Gauge - The number of stitches and rows in a swatch (Often the swatch is 4” x 4” inches / 10 cm x 10cm) When you are reading a pattern or looking at a label, it will usually look like this:
Can also be called: gauge swatch, test swatch, swatch
Knitting - Knitting uses yarn and two long needles to form loops, moving a set of loops from one needle to another to create a stitch that is held on the needle
Knitting Needles - The tool used to create knitwear. The correct size of knitting needles are essential to your project. Different countries go by different sizes, so it's important to know what size you need, and be able to convert sizes if needed. Most countries also use the metric system, so mm (millimeters) is a common measurement. Knitting needles can come in as small size as 1.0 mm (US size: 00000 ) and as large as 25.0 mm (US size: 50) Lastly, the size of the needle will affect your stitches, as large needles with create bigger stitches per inch (and more loose items) and smaller needles create more stitches per inch (a more dense item)
Mercerized - This means an additional process has been added to the cotton, which results in numerous advantages such as; added sheen, more vivid colors, and stronger fabric overall. These benefits means your finished craft will stand the test of time and the colors will remain vibrant for years to come
Stitch - The type of techniques you're using to create your fabric craft.
Skein - A common type of yarn packaging. Other types include: hanks, balls, cakes, and cones
Worsted Yarn - This is one of the most common weights of yarn and is known for being an incredibly versatile fabric that is perfect for various knitting and crochet crafts
Yarn Fibers - There are three main sources of yarn:
Each of these sources can have even more variety among them! Merino wool for example is a wool that comes from the Merino sheep and has a softer feel compared to other wools. There are many other types of yarn fibers not on this list, and there is also yarn which blends several fiber sources together. Ultimately, the thickness, qualities, and feel of the yarn will all be big determining factors for your project!
Yarn Weight - Each size of yarn has a suggested use, and recommended tools to achieve the best results
Source: Craft Yarn Council's www.YarnStandards.com
Let us know in the comments what terms you wish you had known when you just started out with soft crafts!
Have you seen intricate, stunning embroidery and want to create your own work of embroidered art? Look no further than this guide which will tell you how to get started and provide you a one stop shop for all of your embroidery needs!
One of the most important items you’ll need is an embroidery hoop. This handy tool ensures your fabric stays in place with the perfect tension to create your stitches.
Our Embroidery hoops set features 8 bamboo hoops in 3 different sizes for a variety of creative projects. The fabric you create on is also incredibly important, which is why we’ve included four 14 count aida cloth (12" x 12") and four 14 count aida cloth (8" x 8".) The cloth included is white and has no print, so all you need to bring is your imagination! If you decide to hang your finished work, this set also includes 9.8 ft of jute cord to do so.
This set is designed to be perfect for experienced crafters and beginners alike. If this is your first time embroidering, it's helpful to keep in mind to place the top screw at "2 o'clock" if left-handed and "10 o'clock" if right-handed. This will allow for more comfort while working on your project. It’s also important to note that if you are not framing your artwork in the hoop, then to remove the fabric after each session, otherwise the fabric could develop permanent wrinkles.
An assortment of needles is always helpful to have when embroidering, as different types have specific purposes. All needles have an eye (where the thread goes) and a pointed tip (which can be sharp or blunt.) Embroidery needles have a sharp point and long, oval eye, so you can use multiple threads of embroidery floss if needed. Tapestry needles have a blunt tip and larger eye, perfect for needlepoint and cross stitching.
Our Embroidery Accessories set includes both embroidery and tapestry needles, as well as any other accessory you need for creative success. You’ll get a seam ripper, a pin cushion, a needle threader, a thimble, a pair of iridescent scissors with a sheath, and more. The included storage bag makes storing and organizing your supplies easy and ensures traveling with your kit is a breeze.
Of course, you’ll also need the perfect embroidery floss for your design! Many embroidery flosses feature 6 loosely twisted strands of thread (including ours). You can use the strands of floss all together in your stitches, or separate the strands off from each other depending on your desired effect, or if a pattern calls for it.
For our Embroidery Floss, each skein is made of 100% premium mercerized cotton. This means an additional process has been added to the cotton, which results in numerous advantages such as; added sheen, more vivid colors, and stronger fabric overall. These benefits mean your finished craft will stand the test of time, and the colors will remain vibrant for years to come.
We also have multiple assortments of color for your next project! Use them alone, or pair with another assortment for even more fabric crafts. Choose from:
If you’re ready to dive in and need the ultimate embroidery floss set, we also have a 144 piece set which includes solid colors, neon colors, and variegated colors.
We hope this guide was helpful for your newfound embroidery hobby, happy crafting!
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We hope this guide has helped you figure out how to grab the perfect yarn for your next craft! Is there anything else on your yarn labels you're unsure about and want our experts to answer? Write in the comments below!
]]>I get asked a lot why I prefer to use Arteza Real Brush Pens to create my illustrations instead of paints from tubes or pans. I still use traditional watercolors for my work, but more and more I find myself turning to them for so many reasons. First, let’s start with how easy they are to use. I get the same flow and strokes as I get with a paintbrush, but with all the control of a pen. Since the paint is in the barrel, I don’t have to stop for more paint, but can create continuously.
Second of all, I can take them anywhere I want to paint without having to worry about having a supply of water or a separate water cup that could tip over and spill. That’s also the reason I use the Arteza Real Brush Pens Travel Bundle. This easy-to-carry bag holds tons of pens all organized and stable in separate, tight stretch bands.
Third, just like watercolors, I use these pens with a palette, thin them for transparent washes, and layer them on top of each other. It’s actually easier to get a variant of colors just by applying a little or a lot of pressure to the pen.
I use thicker paper that can take being wet without warping. I always try to use paper that’s at least 140lb/300 gsm, like the sheets in the Arteza Watercolor Pad. It’s also a handy pad when I draw and paint away from my studio since the sheets are glue-bound, so I know they won’t fall out and will stay protected once I close the cover. They have a slight texture, which works well for drier techniques.
The ink from the RBP reacts differently on dry paper than it does on wet paper. The following methods are labeled either dry or wet because I am referring to whether the paper or the drawing is wet or dry, not the brush pen.
When I first started using brush pens, this is the way I used them the most. It’s as simple as choosing a color and filling in an area. I found that if I made one stroke at a time, I would get a solid block of color with a hint of shading.
If you’re used to working with traditional watercolors, you’ll be comfortable with this. Fill in an area on dry paper. Next, lightly dip the RBP into some water, but just for a few seconds, and paint over the area again. You’ll notice a change in the shade of the color. I use this method all the time for making gradients and creating smooth transitions.
Also called glazing, this involves coloring in an area and waiting for it to dry, then adding another layer of the same color to get a deeper shade. I do this when I want to create shadows to give my subjects more volume and depth.
The layering I mentioned above is also a great way to create unique patterns. Once again, I paint an area with one color and let it dry completely. Next, I use another color to draw lines or patterns over it. I love to see the new colors as the two separate shades overlap. That translucent quality is another thing I really love about RBPs!
These pens are also wonderful for making lines of varying widths. The tip comes to a very fine point, so I can create a nice straight and even line when I want to outline something, write, or add interesting details. I love how easy it is to get either skinny or fat lines just by adjusting the amount of pressure I apply to the pen.
It’s fascinating to see what happens when I wet the paper first, before using my RBPs. It reacts just like regular watercolor paint! I have found that when using wet paper, my ink will begin to fade into the water after a while. This is because the water on the paper absorbs the watery pigment of the pen. To bring it back to its original brightness, I just dab it on a palette or scrap of dry paper and I’m good to go!
The beauty of using wet paper is that it almost acts like a palette to help me mix colors. I can place pink on the moist paper and then add blue to it and it mixes to a beautiful violet, right on the paper.
This involves both wet and dry paper. First, I wet the paper with clean water, but I leave a small dry section at either the bottom or top. I start filling in the dry area first and gradually move into the wet one, which makes a soft, even gradient from dark to light.
This is closely related to the one-color gradient, only this time, I paint one color on one side of an area and a different color on the other side. As I apply the second color I move it towards the edge of the first color until they meet. This is where I blend the two together that form the gradient.
I first stumbled upon this as a “happy accident” and now I use it all the time to give atmosphere to my paintings. I apply the ink with the RBP across my sheet. Before it dries completely, I squeeze just a drop of water from the water brush onto the paper and then watch how it suddenly “blooms” into this lovely little lacy spot. You have to do this when the paint is almost dry, but still a little damp. If the paper’s too wet, the drop of water will just become absorbed into the existing moisture. If the paint’s too dry, it won’t bloom at all.
You can make tiny star shapes in the same way I did the mini blooms. This time I use a light shade on my moistened paper. Once again, the wetness of the paper is a key factor in whether this works or not. With the tip of the pen, I randomly dot my page with a darker or contrasting hue. It’s fun to see the little colored dots start to slightly spread open, forming the stars.
This is the same method as the one I’ve mentioned already, only this time I use a dark color on moist paper, then wait until the paper dries just a little. I dip my pen into water and then dab tiny, watery dots on the area. Once again, you’ll see little stars appear as the water spreads.
As I’ve mentioned above, I frequently use the water brush to enhance my paintings. It’s an incredibly versatile tool that can be filled with clean water or with colors I’ve already mixed. I use it for blurring hard edges and blending colors together, as well as to create mid-tones.
Sometimes I don’t want a smooth swath of color; instead, I want to make something look as though it has a rough surface. To get that look with my Real Brush Pens, I take advantage of the bristles on these brush pens. RBPs have more bristles than many other pens, so all I have to do is flatten it against the paper until the bristles spread apart, and drag it over the paper, making rough and intermittent rugged marks. Doing this only takes a small amount of pressure because I want the paper to show through the ink. By varying the pressure, I can make some areas solid and others transparent.
I found adding this method really took my art to a new level of interest. I begin by cutting a stencil out of paper. Then, I take a piece of fabric (in this case, some cheesecloth), and cut out a piece slightly larger than my stencil. I lay the stencil on the page. On my palette, I mix the color I want and gently lay the fabric in the paint until it is soaked through. Next, I gently lay the fabric over the stencil and press it down onto the page. When I remove the fabric and the stencil I have a unique design with an unusual texture. To make the design more clear, I sometimes use a paint cap to press the fabric onto the paper.
Salt absorbs water so it’s no wonder that it makes a great way to add uniqueness to this medium. I start with a wet page and paint it with my RBP, usually a darker color. While it’s still wet I sprinkle some salt over it. I don’t use much. If I use too much it will form a heap and won’t create a pattern. I leave it to dry for a few minutes. I know that it’s time to remove the salt once I see that it has almost dissolved. I wipe the salt off with my hand to reveal a pattern that looks similar to crystals or snowflakes.
There you have it! Sixteen tried and true ways to use Real Brush Pens. I love using these art markers to produce beautiful works of art, and I'm not the only one! Take a look at what other people have said about Arteza, and our Real Brush Pens. Once you start playing around with them, you’re going to find even new ways to use them, I’m sure. I would love to know what you think, so leave me a comment. Until then, have fun!
]]>Supplies Needed
Step 1. Design and Cut out your Tags
Choose the shape you'd like to make your gift tags. We chose a simple gift tag shape, but you can choose any shape you'd like! Once you know what shape you'd like, grab a pencil, a ruler, and your fine art paper of choice. Draw out as many tags as you need on the paper, then grab your scissors and cut!
If you're not as precise at cutting with scissors as you'd like, a crafting knife against the edge of a ruler helps ensure precision; make sure your hands and the surface you're cutting on are protected, as crafting knives are sharp! Lastly, use a hole punch to create a hole to thread the gift string through. Alternatively, if you're in a pinch and don't have a hole punch, you can use our adhesive glue to glue the tags down onto the wrapping paper.
Inspiration: Make your gift tags extra personalized by making different shapes for different people!
Step 2. Start Creating
With your medium of choice, start designing! Here are some of our favorite ideas for unique textures and patterns!
Once you've finished your artwork, address the gift tag on the blank side or even the side with the artwork.
Inspiration: Try some of these color combinations with any medium you’re using!
Step 3. Give Amazing Gifts!
Voila, you've created fun, custom tags for all of your family and loved ones to enjoy. We hope they love the thoughtful gesture as much as you loved making these unique gift tags!
]]>On each day we’ll feature a collection of exclusive deals from your favorite Arteza supplies. You can find crafting tools, paints, markers, kids supplies, and so much more. Each deal is for ONE day ONLY so you have to act fast! Here's a sneak peek at some of the products you can stock up on during our Daily Deal sale.
]]>In this guide, instead of using a canvas, we’ve used wood slices. The artist in the video is using Arteza Pouring Acrylic Paint, a premixed, high-flow paint that is ready to pour. It comes in a wide range of colors, including metallics, neons, and pastels. She pours the paint on Arteza Wood Slices made from natural pine wood with a smooth, sanded surface, which means there’s no preparation involved, just take them out of the box and they’re ready to use.
You shouldn’t be afraid to try pouring — it’s easy! One of the things that makes it so great is that you don’t need to have any artistic training or skills to do it. The most important part of the pouring technique is choosing the colors and color combinations you will use. You don’t have to overthink this, though. No matter which colors you choose, you’re sure to end up with an interesting design. Just choose your colors and take your time. In fact, you might even find yourself in a meditative state as you begin pouring the paint and watching as the colors swirl around each other.
Here are seven different designs the artist achieved using a variety of acrylic paints and acrylic pour techniques. Some of the designs even use glitter! We featured color recommendations for each step, but feel free to use any color you desire! After you watch the video and see how it’s done, don’t be afraid to experiment and use your favorite colors. There’s no wrong way to do this.
Hint: Since wood is porous, it will absorb the paint, so you might want to prime the wood slices first. You can do this by using a thin coat of regular acrylic paint and letting it dry before starting the pouring process. If you like the look of the wood grain showing through, don’t prime the slices; instead, pour the paint directly onto them.
To create this abstract design, the artist in the video pours each color onto the slice, making small drops here and there. These drops will spread out and mix together. She then adds a different color to these drops. You can experiment with combinations.
Next, rotate the wood slice and watch how the paints move around each other and blend together in a beautiful way. The artist uses a sculpting utensil to create a design by dragging the tool through the paint to create lines going in different directions. If you don't have a sculpting tool, you can use a toothpick, or any item you don't mind temporarily getting paint on that will create a line By starting each line from the same spot, she achieves a nice pattern as a result.
TIP: It is best to add black in small amounts to keep the paint from turning “muddy.”
This time the artist pours the paint onto the wood in stripes using A101, A503, A502, A804, A901, and a drop of A701. Then she rotates the slice the same way she did in Design 1. Finally, she adds glitter into the wet paint to ensure it adheres and won’t flake off after drying.
The third design is similar to the first, only much smaller drops are used. In this design, the artist uses similar colors A602 Carnation Pink and A605 Coral and then adds a complementary color, A402 Sea Green. Once again, she rotates the wood until she achieves the design she is most happy with.
TIP: Use a paper towel to blot the back of the wood slice after you have finished pouring and have gotten the results you want. This way the slice won’t stick to the surface of the table after the paint has dried.
For the fourth design, the artist pours the paint onto the wood in circles, alternating between the colors — A301 Phthalo Blue, A805 Neon Blue, A402 Sea Green, A901 Gold, and A101 Titanium White. After that, she adds gold glitter and makes a motif in the paint with the pottery tool.
The fifth design is made by making a rainbow using the drop technique. The artist starts with the darker shades of purple and blues, next adding green, yellow, and orange, and gradually ending with red (A806 Neon Purple, A301 Phthalo Blue, A805 Neon Blue, A804 Neon Green, A801 Neon Yellow, A802 Neon Orange, A202 Vermilion Red). She finishes the design by creating a pattern with the pottery utensil and adding A101 Titanium White and A902 Silver.
In the sixth design, the artist fills the entire surface of the slice with A701 Mars Black. Next, she adds A202 Vermilion Red, A802 Neon Orange, and A502 Lemon Yellow. She then pours A101 Titanium White in drops and, using the sculpting tool, creates a design. If you don't have a sculpting tool, you can use a toothpick, or any item you don't mind temporarily getting paint on that will create a line. She adds gold glitter as a finishing touch.
To make the last composition, the artist lines up three wood slices. She pours the paint in layers into a glass container using A501 Mid Yellow, A402 Sea Green, A202 Vermilion Red, A806 Neon Purple, A805 Neon Blue, and A301 Phthalo Blue, and adding A101 Titanium White last. Beginning at the end of the row, she pours the paint across the slices, covering them all with equal amounts. She then rotates each slice to make sure each one is completely covered and to achieve the design she desires.
There you have it! We think you’ll enjoy hours of fun and creativity using these paint pouring techniques on wood slices. You’ll see that pouring is a quick method, which means you get to make spectacular designs really fast. Plus, the colors can be combined in an almost indefinite number of ways, so you’ll get a stunning result every time.
Now that you’ve read about the different ways to use acrylic pouring paint on wood slices, watch the video to see the artist in action.
]]>Whether you’ll be dining with just a few people or having the entire family over, you’ll want your Thanksgiving table decorations to look as festive as possible. You don’t have to spend a lot of money or be a professional stylist to have dazzling decorations. In fact, here are eight simple Thanksgiving table ideas to dress up your table for a fabulous Thanksgiving decor.
To ensure your projects turn out picture-perfect, we’ve included a list of the supplies, step-by-step instructions, and a video for each one. We recommend reading the instructions and watching the video before you begin a project to be fully prepared.
1. Find a message online or create your own and print it out. To center your message on the plate, trace the perimeter of the plate over your message. Turn the paper over and use a pencil to color over the back of the message. Cover it thoroughly with graphite. Turn the paper over and place the message in the center of the plate. Using the pencil, trace over the message to transfer it onto the plate.
2. Place the A112 paint on a palette and mix with a little water (3:2 paint-to-water ratio). Keep the brush wet and use a tissue or paper towel to make sure the paint doesn’t build up on the brush. Slowly and carefully outline your message with a thin line of paint. By resting your hand on the table, you’ll be able to make straight, fine lines. Let the paint dry and then add another layer.
TIP: If you make a mistake, simply wipe off the paint quickly with a wet tissue before the paint dries.
3. Place the A202 paint on the palette. Apply it as is, without mixing with water. Paint the pumpkins and leaves. Let dry completely.
4. Even though this paint is non-toxic, we recommend using an eco-friendly varnish made especially for items that will be used for food. Cover the plate entirely in this varnish and let dry before using.
By using a smaller plate, you can create a matching set of Thanksgiving dinner and salad plates. That’s what we’ve done in this version, which only has decorative pumpkin elements without any text.
1. Fold the napkin into a rectangle. It is important to use an all-cotton napkin with a high thread count to ensure the marker lines will be precise and legible.
2. Find a message online or create your own message and print it out. Turn the paper over and use a pencil to color over the back of the message. Cover it thoroughly. Turn the paper back over and place the message in the center of the napkin. Using the pencil, trace over the message to transfer the letters to the napkin.
HINT: It’s important to note that fabric markers do not dry instantly, so you don’t want to rush this step. To keep from smearing your work, draw over the lines slowly and carefully and wait for them to dry before proceeding.
3. Before starting, place cardboard or thick paper underneath the napkin to keep the marker from bleeding through the fabric. Begin with the finer tip end of the fabric marker for the lettering, as this will help you initially place everything correctly. Use the other end of the marker with the slightly larger tip to build up the wider areas on the letters.
4. Once you’ve completed your drawing, let your artwork dry for at least 6 hours. After it is completely dry, iron the back of the napkin to set your design.
Try using this technique on different colored napkins or give each person at the table their own unique message or picture!
1. Paint each twig, making sure to get all sides and the ends thoroughly covered. Let dry.
2. Tie the two twigs together, side by side, with twine. Cut off the ends for a neat finish.
3. Write the name of your dinner guest on the smooth side of the card with the marker.
4. Place the card in the center of the stand between the twigs.
1. Use paper towels to cover the inside pages of a heavy book and lay the leaves between the paper towels. Close the book and lay something heavy on top to firmly press the leaves. Keep the book in a dry, warm place and don’t open for 24 hours.
2. Remove the leaves from the book. Gather together the paint brush, palette, water, branch, and thread.
3. Cover one side of each leaf with a single layer of paint, alternating between all the colors. Dilute the paint with a little water to get a thin, smooth coat. Use each color as is or create your own colors by mixing paints on the palette. Let leaves dry for 5-10 minutes. Turn over and paint the other side. Let that side dry. Add 1 or 2 more layers of paint to each side. To make your leaves more interesting, apply different shades of paint randomly on the leaves.
4. Arrange leaves on a flat surface until they are completely dry. As they dry, the leaves may curl a little, which will give them a more natural appearance. If you prefer flat leaves, you can press them again.
5. To paint the thread that will hold the leaves on the branch, dip the tip of a thread into the paint that matches the leaf and then press it on the paper with the brush, sticking it to the surface. Pull the thread through the bristles of the brush. Repeat this step with each color. Hang colored threads until they are completely dry.
6. Cover the peeled branch with PVA glue and leave it for a couple of hours to dry completely. Then, cover the branch with one coat of paint. After it dries, softly rub paint of different colors to random areas of the branch.
7. Tie painted threads to the branch approximately 4 inches apart. Tie the other end of the thread to the stem of each leaf or attach it with a glue gun. Use this garland as a table runner or hang from the ceiling above the table.
1. Wash the pumpkin, cleaning off any dust and dirt. Dry it well.
2. Paint the stem, top, and sides with Bronze paint. Make sure to get good enough coverage so that you can’t see any of the orange pumpkin skin showing through the paint . If you use the paint straight from the tube, without mixing it with water, one coat should be sufficient. If you thin the paint with water, let it dry thoroughly and then add another coat. Let the paint dry for 4-5 hours.
3. For the bottom of the pumpkin, repeat Step 2.
You can use one large bronze pumpkin for your centerpiece or paint several in various sizes to scatter down the middle of your table for an interesting display.
NOTE: We recommend wearing a respirator mask when working with glitter.
1. Apply masking tape so that it covers ⅔ of the jar.
2. Mark the jar at equal intervals all the way around to ensure the drawing will connect seamlessly.
3. Draw the vine and leaves (above and below the vine) around the jar using the marks to connect them.
4. Cut and peel away the tape from all the areas that will be covered in glitter — the bottom leaves and all the tape around the leaves above the vine.
5. Squeeze a little glue on the jar and use a brush to paint in those areas. If the surface is broad, as is the case here, it is better to divide this process into a few steps to make sure the glue doesn’t dry before adding the glitter.
6. Pour a generous amount of the Brilliant Silver glitter over the glue. Use a piece of scrap paper to lightly tamp the glue down to secure it on the glue. Shake off the excess glitter. It may require up to three layers to get complete coverage. Apply each new layer only after the previous one has dried.
7. Use the black marker to draw the outlines of the bottom leaves before removing the rest of the masking tape on the jar. Peel the tape carefully to avoid tearing the connections between the leaves and the vine.
8. Using a very fine paint brush, paint the glue onto the outline of the leaves and along the vine. Pour the Chocolate glitter over these areas, tamp with the tissue, and shake off excess. As with Step 6, you will need to add three layers of glitter, applied after each separate layer has dried.
TIP: Place a piece of paper under the jar to catch the glitter. Once you shake off the unnecessary glitter, use the paper to funnel what’s leftover back into the jar. Use a separate sheet of paper every time you change glitter colors to avoid mixing them.
9. Once the last layer of glitter is dry, sweep around the vine and leaves with a paint brush to clean the surface of any leftover glitter.
10. Add your votive candles for a sparkling addition to your Thanksgiving table.
NOTE: We recommend wearing a respirator mask when working with glitter.
1. Draw a vine and leaves on the wood slice with a pencil.
2. Apply a thick layer of glue with a brush to one side of the vine, painting around the outline of the leaves.
3. Pour a generous amount of the Brilliant Silver glitter over the glue. Press it with soft tissue for better adhesion. Shake off excess glitter and pour remaining amount back into the jar.
4. Paint a line of glue over the outline of the vine and leaves. Sprinkle a good portion of Chocolate glitter over the glue. Pat down with the tissue. Shake off the excess.
We hope you’ve enjoyed learning some easy ways to create a stunning decor for your Thanksgiving Day table. Whether you use one of these ideas or all of them, you’re sure to have fun with each project and delight in all the compliments on your decorating you’ll receive!
Discover Arteza’s new, one-stop shop for your next masterpiece! We’ve made it even easier for artists like you to build and personalize your own acrylic paint palette. To create your one-of-a-kind palette, simply:
As an experienced artist, we tend to get tired of buying a multi-pack of paint colors that we don’t necessarily use. Overtime, the paint colors we never wanted in the first place sit on the shelf collecting dust and drying out. That is why for the first time ever, Arteza is creating a one-stop paint shop that allows artists to choose the colors you need to use for your next project.
Instead of grabbing 4oz tubes of pre-selected colors, you can choose your favorite color. Now you can mix the perfect assortment of metallic, pearlescent, and solid colors in one package. It is the perfect gift for the artist that knows exactly what they are looking for.
Personal Palettes are ideal for artists of all levels, whether you're just having fun or curating your next artistic exhibit! Whether a creature of habit of your favorite colors or have a commission coming up and only need a few specific colors – Arteza is your store.
Ask yourself…
All this and more are possible when you create your own personal palette!
We love hearing from our customers, so let us know if you’d like to see more sizes and color assortments in the comments below!
*The product page will inform you how many hours you have (based on your zip code) until the shipping cutoff for 2-day delivery]]>
As a professional illustrator, sketching is an important part of my creative process. Over the years, I’ve become more and more passionate about having a daily sketching practice and I’m excited to share one of my favorite sketching activities—urban sketching! Urban sketching has gotten to be quite popular. It allows artists to capture their surroundings and share where they live and work with others. In this article, I’ll tell you why I love it so much and teach you what it takes to start your own urban sketching practice.
City sketches are a wonderful way to learn more about the city you live in or travel to. Plus, you can improve your composition skills and use different tools while having a great time!
One of the key skills you’ll use is directly drawing from life and capturing the urban space around you. You can draw whenever you’re alone, such as when you’re sitting in a cafe or when you’re waiting for a bus, train or ride. Being alone allows you to focus on your plein air drawings.
You can also draw with a group of like-minded people. There is a whole global community of urban sketchers that you can find here: www.urbansketchers.org. This non-profit organization aims to engage and encourage people to create full-scale sketches. Groups are usually gathered under the guidance of an experienced artist. Everyone has their own reasons for sketching, but in general, the main goal is to depict the life of the city and urban space. Today, they include urban sketching groups in more than 40 cities. Check it out, there’s probably a group in a city near you that you can join to start sketching!
The first thing you need is a sketchbook. It's much more convenient to draw on the street with a sketchbook—your sheets won't blow away if it’s windy and it's also comfortable to use. It’s the best way to guarantee that all your work stays safe and in one place.
If you are just starting to sketch, I recommend not using a large or very expensive sketchbook; otherwise, you may become intimidated. Start with a comfortable size that you can freely carry with you. Usually, an A5 sketchbook is a good size to start with.
These are good sketchbooks I recommend to my students:
As for the drawing tools, I suggest you experiment until you find one you like the best.
You can start with liners or pens to get yourself accustomed to creating precise lines. Sketching outdoors means you’ll be working with unpredictable conditions, so time is incredibly valuable. Try to learn how to draw on-the-go. Don't be afraid to make mistakes. The main thing is to get yourself comfortable with drawing what you want the first time around. Drawing with pencils allows you to erase, fix mistakes and redraw areas as many times as you want.
I’m deeply in love with liners. That’s why many of my sketches are drawn using them. Therefore, I strongly recommend the following:
Once you have a sketchbook and drawing tools, it’s important to make yourself comfortable as well. Be sure to bring a bottle of water, a sun hat or a raincoat. You can also grab some snacks. Believe me, when you get hungry, you’ll forget all about creating art! Artists shouldn't draw while hungry! You can also grab a folding stool or a cushion so you can sit comfortably anywhere.
As the name implies, urban sketching is designed to capture the life of the city and the urban environment. For many people, the first thing that comes to mind is architecture. In addition to buildings and architecture, you can draw anything that catches your eye—people, small shops or fragments of space, transportation and monuments, parks and museum displays—all of this can become a source of inspiration. The subjects for sketching are unlimited! Draw what is most interesting to you!
You might be wondering, why is it so important to keep a sketchbook? I have found throughout my experience that these are the reasons it’s important to use a sketchbook every day:
For me, I use all of these tactics to keep my sketchbook filled with art. With the help of my sketches, I can study the world around me, depict what I see and improve my skills as an artist, which affects my illustrative work.
Remember, your sketchbook is not a canvas for exhibition. This is a place where you study, learn about the world and express yourself. Mistakes are normal! You can always go back over the page with a collage or draw something over it.
If you’re worried about whether you can start without preparation or special education, my answer is yes! The sooner you start drawing from life, the more experience you’ll have. Explore the space around you and the sketch artists that inspire you. Draw for fun! Lack of education is no reason to doubt yourself. Of course, I want every sketch to be a masterpiece. I think this is a familiar feeling for a majority of people. However, the bottom line is that you do it for yourself. Don’t worry! You’ll get masterpieces sooner or later!
When you draw every day, your brain starts working in a different way. My students can confirm this. Your hand gets stronger and your view of the world changes. You begin to notice interesting moments and look at familiar things in a new way. Try it and see for yourself!
There’s no right way to use your sketchbook. If you feel the need for daily drawing, the need for creativity, you should ask yourself, “What is interesting and important to me? What do I love?" The answer will lead to the direction you want to take. Here are some possible directions for your sketchbook:
1. A Travel Diary
When you visit somewhere new, a photograph can’t always fully capture what you’re seeing. With a sketch, you can select the angle, material, what you’d like to emphasize and how you’d like to convey it. However, it’s worth practicing your techniques before your trip.
2. Instagram Posts & Stories
If you’re like most people today, you have an Instagram account. Sketches are a great opportunity to enrich your page and add liveliness to your posts and stories. It’s a great way to follow other sketchers, make new friends and participate in challenges.
3. Record Your Life & Feelings
Every day you see so much beauty around you. Keeping a sketch journal allows you to record what you notice—special moments, natural phenomena, people or things in your home that are dear to your heart. If you want to express yourself but don’t know how, then start sketching!
4. Boost Your Quick-Sketching Skills
Sketching from real life requires you to sketch fast. People change positions frequently, cars pass by and the weather can suddenly change, so it’s important to learn to do quick sketches. The more you practice the better you’ll get at it, which will come in handy if you’re a game or graphic designer or an illustrator like me.
There are so many reasons to make sketching a part of your daily routine. Drawing in the city gives you practice at so many art fundamentals, such as perspective, value, scale and figure drawing, that will enhance the rest of your art. It’s also a great way to keep track of ideas for future projects. Many artists use their sketchbooks as a way to determine how they will depict a subject on larger surfaces. I truly believe that a sketchbook and pen are my most valuable art tools!
I hope this article has inspired you to start urban sketching. I’d love to hear how it’s going, so leave me your comments and happy sketching!
]]>In case you’re not a big fan of your children spending time in front of the screen, we suggest filling their time with easy art projects. We have lots of how-to’s and craft-making blogs with videos on the Arteza web site. There are also lots of products just for kids, including finger paints, coloring books, markers, and tempera paints.
While Pinky is trying to get his artwork featured at a famous museum, the Dogfather is planning a heist at the same museum.
Painters Pink Panther and Big Nose paint with two very different styles of art and fight over who gets to have their work shown at a museum.
Here's every piece of art that Squidward has made!
Masha and the Bear enlighten children about real friendship, care, freedom of creativity and basic skills in a funny and smart manner. Masha borrows paints with a tiny canvas and begins to make paintings of everyone in the forest.
Peppa, George, and Daddy are in the garden painting a picture of a cherry tree when the ducks turn up and run through the paint—and all over their masterpiece.
Peppa Pig is ready to paint pictures, but instead of paint, Peppa uses mud! So much fun!
Panda struggles in art class until he receives some help from his friend Charlie in this clip from the episode, "Panda's Art."
Booba gets into a suitcase at the airport and finally finds himself in an apartment of an artist. He sees many beautiful paintings and tries to imitate the subject of the masterpiece.
In the magical Little Kingdom, friends Ben Elf and fairy princess Holly have fun adventures as they learn about teamwork, sharing and problem-solving.
Because they feel unappreciated, Poet and Painter leave Smurf Village and head for Storm Island, totally unaware that Gargamel is planning to trap them. Papa Smurf and his faithful volunteers come to the rescue.
Jack decides to take up nature painting, only to bring chaos to the forest. Bugs confronts him and mayhem ensues.
Oggy decides he’s an artist and goes about painting a tree. While he is admiring his masterpiece, the roaches steal it and the painting does not come out unscathed. Just as Oggy is getting ready to throw it out, a collector shows up to buy it.
"Dolly and Friends" is a story about a beautiful little sheep called Dolly. She likes to look for adventure with her friends: a hedgehog, a panda, a little dragon, a ram, and others.
The artful and mischievous adventures of Spookiz and his friends.
We hope your children have enjoyed watching some of our kids’ favorite cartoons. You might recognize in our list some old favorites or discover ones you and your kids have never seen.
Hopefully, seeing some of their best-loved characters having fun making art, will encourage your kids to make some of their own. If that happens, we’re here for you with tons of products, tutorials, and inspiration!
Halloween clay ideas abound when it comes to making ghosts and goblins come alive with polymer clay. It’s so easy to mold into all kinds of shapes and because it’s made with PVC, a synthetic plastic polymer, you don’t need a kiln — you’re oven is hot enough for curing. It keeps its shape even when heat is applied, no melting or drooping; and once you’ve cured your creation in the oven you have a figurine that will last for many Halloweens to come.
After you read the easy to follow steps, watch as our artist creates the scene in the accompanying video. Here’s what you’ll need to make your very own handmade Halloween polymer clay scene.
To start the scene the artist begins with the yard and the path and works his way toward the house.
The canvas panel will be the foundation for this tablescape. Paint it black, using acrylic paint. To achieve the best coverage, apply two coats of paint, making sure it covers all the edges, and let dry completely.
As you can see in the video, the artist draws what will be the curved path on a white sheet of paper. Then he cuts it out with a craft knife on a quilter’s cutting mat. Next, he uses the white paper pieces as a pattern to cut the sides of the path out of the adhesive-backed, black felt, which is the same size as the canvas. He then sticks the felt to the canvas. Now you have a lawn on both sides of the canvas with a path running through it.
What’s Halloween without a haunted house? You can get ideas for the house either from your imagination or by tracing one you have found in a magazine, book, or online. The artist has already traced a house on a piece of horizontal, heavyweight black paper. He cuts out the windows and the sides of the house first and then folds up the bottom to create a lip that will allow the house to stand on the canvas.
The artist applies a colored film to the back of the windows to imitate light coming through. Create silhouettes of the trees and the fence the same way as for the house.
The best way to create the characters is to either sketch them from your imagination or from a photo reference. The more detailed you can make these drawings the easier it will be to model them from clay.
Once you have your sketches made, it’s time to create a wireframe for each. The wireframe ensures you get the right shape you want, will hold the clay in place, and help your character stand securely.
Watch closely as the artist creates the wireframe for each character. He is using copper wire and has peeled off the wire’s coating before using to make the wire stronger and hold its shape better.
After each of the Halloween shapes for your polymer characters are made, it’s time to start adding the clay.
The artist starts with the black polymer clay and begins adding it to the wireframe, molding it to resemble a cat. Don’t forget to add its little triangular ears.
Roll out small balls of yellow and pink clay and flatten them until they are 1-2 mm thick. The yellow bits will be the cat’s eyes and the pink will be its nose. Press the eyes and nose in place on the cat’s face.
The cat shown here is wearing a mask. To create this, use white clay and roll out a small pancake 2-3 mm thick. Using one of the cutting tools from the sculpting kit, cut out a mask shape. Next, cut the eye and nose holes of the mask. Press it on the face, making sure you can see the eyes and nose peeking through. The artist uses sculpting tools to add details. He takes tiny bits of the black clay and rolls them into short lengths to form a vertical pupil for the center of each eye.
To make the cat’s costume, the artist starts with the smallest “bones” using the white clay. He rolls small balls and attaches them to the front of the cat and along its tail. For the larger bones, he rolls out thin sausage-like strips to a thickness of 2-3 mm. He cuts them with a knife and shapes the edges to make them look like bones. Then he attaches them to the legs.
Preheat the oven to 266°F or 130°C. Place the clay figure on an oven-safe glass or metal surface and bake for 15 minutes per ¼ inch (6mm) thickness. Use this baking information for all the characters in this project.
TIP: After your polymer clay figure has finished baking, leave it to cool in the oven. It will become stronger as it cools and become less likely to break when you take it out.
To make it look as if your cat is sitting on grass, cut out a circle with uneven or fringed edges from the green construction paper.
The artist begins by building the wireframe, using thicker wire for the main structure that will become the ghost’s body and thinner wire to fasten the thicker wire together. He keeps adding wire to create a cylinder. He leaves a wire sticking horizontally out of each side for the ghost’s arms.
Since the ghost will hang from a fishing line, the artist creates a place on the top of its frame to fasten the line by making a small loop with a piece of wire and affixing the ends to the top of the wireframe.
He covers the wireframe with small portions of the grey polymer clay, pressing and molding them, working his way over the entire surface. He leaves openings for the eyes and mouth. After the surface is covered he smooths the clay, inside and out, with his hands. He sculpts the clay into eyelids and lips to emphasize the eyes and mouth. He uses the sculpting tool to add details.
To add texture to the ghost’s body, he flattens little balls of clay, in grey and yellow, to make round discs that he presses onto the surface. Afterwards, he creates the hands and puts them at the ends of the wire “arms.”
Cure in the oven. After it has cooled, attach the fishing line and hang.
The wireframe for the moon is a crescent-shaped piece of wire. As he did with the ghost, the artist forms a small loop from a piece of wire and affixes it to the top of the wireframe for hanging.
Roll out light yellow clay to form one piece large enough to cover the entire surface of the wire and add more and more clay to build up the body of the moon. Once the moon is covered, the artist uses the sculpting tools and his fingers to form the nose, eyes, and mouth. Using bits of white, create the whites of the eyes. Use other colors of clay to add more details.
Cure in the oven and after it is completely cool, attach the fishing line and it’s ready to hang.
You don’t need to make a frame for the smallest pumpkins. Using a small portion of orange clay, the artist simply rolls it into a uniform ball. He uses sculpting tools or his fingers to create the creases in the sides and other details.
For larger pumpkins, you will need to use wireframe.
IDEA: Since the wireframe for the larger pumpkin makes it hollow, the artist has placed an LED light inside to light the pumpkin up.
Roll out strips of clay in varying shades of orange and lay each across the wireframe, molding them together, while leaving holes for the eyes and mouth. Shape the clay around the eyes and mouth to get the expression you desire. Use sculpting tools to add creases and other details. Use bits of the orange clays to create texture.
Cure in the oven. Let cool completely.
Cut from the green construction paper irregular shapes with uneven or frayed edges to represent grass.
You now have all the elements for an eerie Halloween tablescape. First, place the canvas with the black felt on top of a table or wherever you have chosen for your display. Then slip the folded edges of the house, trees, and fence under one long edge of the canvas. Next, place the green “grass” on top of the felt. Finish off the scene by hanging the moon and ghost at varying heights above the canvas.
Done! You’ve created a cute, yet spooky DIY display just in time for trick-or-treaters!
We hope you’ve enjoyed these Halloween polymer clay ideas. Besides creating adorable characters, you can also use polymer clay for other craft projects, such as jewelry, ornaments, cell phone accessories, and more. Give it a try!
The world is full of art inspiration. Just look around you and you’ll see dozens of interesting things to draw and paint. But, in case you’re looking for something new to work on at the moment, we’ve collected ideas for paintings from our team of artists that we know will inspire you. What you’ll see here are a lot of different subjects and types of canvas. So, whether you paint in bright colors or soft pastels, hyper-realistic or impressionistic, take a look and get those creative juices flowing!
Canvas is a favorite surface on which to paint because it holds the paint well, it gives a painting a slight textural look, it lasts a long time, and it’s lightweight, making it easy to carry. As you’ll see in these works, our artists have used both canvas panels as well as those stretched and stapled over a frame. They also have taken advantage of the different sizes that are available to enhance the overall appearance or feeling they’re trying to evoke. At Arteza, we offer several ways to have the canvas that fits your style and budget. You can get multiple packs in a range of sizes as well as in white and black. By buying in bulk you can rest assured you’ll have a fresh canvas waiting for you when you’re ready for one, or be able to work on several paintings at once.
Now, let’s take a look at some subjects you might want to consider for your next painting.
Shut your eyes and imagine your favorite colors swirling around you in different shapes. Now open them and start painting, using what you saw. You’ll be happily surprised at what your mind has come up with! Here our artist used gouache paint in some pastel shades along with bright hits of color to create this fantasy abstract painting on a canvas panel. Note how she uses a variety of brush strokes along with some splattering to add an otherworldly appeal. Here you can learn how to use gouache.
Have you taken a vacation to a faraway place? Paintings of landscapes that are completely different than the ones at home make excellent paintings and will bring back memories. Here our artist uses Arteza acrylics to paint this desert scene on canvas panel.
The lights of the city really shine at night, so if your style uses big bold colors, you might want to give this a try. Our artist pumped up the color even more by using a black canvas to get the greatest contrast. See how the reds, yellows, blues, and white really pop?
If you want to practice painting animals, the cat is a perfect choice. Cats tend to stay in place (mostly sleeping) for long periods of time. They also stretch, lick their paws, sit and look out the window, and curl up next to us, which all makes for sweet paintings. You can paint a close up of your beloved cat’s face, as this artist did, or use the entire canvas’s surface to show its whole body. Best part—you’ll have a pet portrait you’ll always treasure.
You won’t find a more pleasing subject to paint than your dog. No matter if it’s a pure breed or a rescue, your dog has a special place in your heart and always will. So why not immortalize him or her on canvas?
The ocean is full of interesting-looking creatures. Here our artist chose the jellyfish as her subject and used a limited palette, as well as thick and thin lines to create a composition full of movement. By using a panel, she took advantage of its slim depth to display it on a tabletop easel. This would look stunning on a coffee table or desk.
For abstract painters, here’s a twist. How about using metallic acrylic paint to create impasto work? That’s what our artist did and we think it looks awesome! These rich paints are perfect for using the palette knife to create deep and highly textural strokes. The rectangular canvas gives it an added modern feeling and is the ideal size for perching on a small easel for everyone to enjoy.
The hustle and bustle of the city is the perfect subject for using metallic acrylic paint. It’s opaque enough to get beautiful solid blocks of color while also being able to thin, allowing for more transparent washes for layering and subtle colorations. The sheen that metallic adds reinforces the iron light post and the steel skyscrapers. This was painted on a stretched canvas and will look wonderful framed.
Using lots of complementary colors helps give this painting of a rooster so much energy. Chickens and other farm animals make good subjects because they have so many characteristics that make them adorable. By using acrylics on this stretched canvas the artist was able to capture his mannerisms and personality.
If you look closely, you’ll see two sides of the same face that look as if they’ve been set in a mosaic of tiles. The fun part is that these paintings will look terrific hung alone or as a pair. If you decide to try a diptych (two pieces of artwork that go together) such as this, make sure to paint on surfaces of the same depth. Here they’re on two matching panels.
In this impressionistic scene, the artist applied metallic acrylics with loose brush strokes. This gives the painting the ethereal feeling of a lakeside sunset. Painted on a canvas panel, the reflection of the sky in the water is beautifully captured. Take pictures of the sky during the early morning or late afternoon hours, also known as the “golden hour,” to create your own magical moments such as this.
Architectural structures make for compelling artwork as you can see in this canvas painting of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. The beauty of bridges is that you not only have all the intricacies of the framework, but there’s also the water below and the sky above to paint. Investigate bridges in your area and choose one. It doesn’t have to be a famous one like this; even small ones over creeks and rivers make lovely works of art.
What better backdrop for a scary image than a black canvas. Here the artist used it as an opportunity to emphasize the fire enveloping the skull that’s graphic enough to send chills down your spine. What scary creatures would you like to paint? Monsters, vampires, zombies, and other ghouls make engrossing and gripping paintings.
You may not realize it, but your world is populated with fun and quirky people. A fun thing to do is to take some small canvases and make a series of paintings of all the oddballs, individualists, and totally awesome folks you know. Hang them all together on a wall and you’ll always have their joyful and free-spirited energy around you.
Nothing invites the engagement of a viewer than presenting them with a story to uncover. Is this a sad story about the loss of a beloved pet bird, or is it a metaphor for the artist’s struggle to finally break free? Notice how the painter extended the colors onto the sides of the canvas so that it can be hung with or without a frame. What story could you tell in your next work?
Heavenly bodies have been painted for centuries. It’s probably because they’re mysterious and unknown. Once again, a black surface is an excellent way to begin painting the galaxy. Within it, you can render real or imaginary planets, meteors, moons, and stars and take us on a trip far, far away.
One of the best features of canvas stretched tightly over a wood frame is its ability to stand up to quantities of paint without seeping through. This makes it extremely popular for creating poured paint pieces. Arteza carries pre-mixed, ready-to-pour paints so you can drizzle, spill, tilt, and turn a myriad of colors for dazzling effects.
Using the rules of perspective is an instant way to involve the viewer in the piece. Having a vanishing point, especially in the center as you see here, invites the viewer in to travel along a road, path, or waterway. By taking advantage of the canvas’s equal sides, it’s as if you are looking through a window into another world.
Try not to limit yourself to just one size surface. Many subjects lend themselves to a larger scale. The depth of the ocean and the long tentacles of the jellyfish are emphasized here with the adoption of this large, rectangular canvas.
Ever looked out the window of a plane and thought that it would make a spectacular painting? When you choose a bird’s eye view, you give that same feeling to those who see your work. It can be really breathtaking. You can find these kinds of images online to use as a reference or a photo taken from a drone (if you have access to one) would be cool!
One of the most traditional types of canvas paintings is portraiture. You can paint one either from life or from a photo. If you have someone willing to sit for you, place the canvas on an easel perpendicular to your subject to ensure accuracy. Photos allow you to trace an outline of the person and then you can go crazy painting them however you like!
Seascapes and paintings of boats are very popular as wall art. They also provide the opportunity to paint “en Plein Air” or outdoors. Take a portable easel, a few canvas boards, some paint, brushes, and a comfy folding chair and you have all the ingredients for a relaxing day by the lake or at a marina.
This hyper-realistic portrait is juxtaposed with the small size of this canvas to give it a surreal look and feel. By getting up close to his subject, the artist was able to convey even more emotion. Experiment with doing something similar on a set of tiny canvases and you’ll end up with an alluring gallery of little, yet hugely impactful canvas art.
Some of the most famous paintings depict a rainy day. That’s because rain causes fascinating reflections, colors, and atmospheres. It can be a stormy, gray day or an early morning mist against a blue sky. It looks different hitting a city sidewalk than it does a hidden forest. So, don’t let the rain keep you from painting!
The idea here is to show both the seen and the unseen for a dynamic composition full of movement and intrigue. You can take just about anything you see and with a little imagination show it and what’s beneath its surface. Some ideas might be a tree and its roots or a city sidewalk and the infrastructure of pipes below it. It’s fun to ponder on what lies underneath our feet.
There you have it. Twenty-five ideas to get those wheels in your mind turning. Try one or some, or challenge yourself to complete all of them! You’ll be amazed at how many more ideas will come from doing that. We’d love to hear which ones were your favorites and any other ideas you can share. Until then, happy painting!
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]]>Pumpkin season is coming, and Halloween decorations are a must! But then comes in the big debate: To carve or not to carve? That is the question.
Pumpkin carving can be a slimy mess, with seeds and pumpkin guts flying all over the place. While it’s such a classic activity, it can be a little sad when your jack-o-lantern friend becomes a bit squishy after a couple of days.
In this post, we’re helping you put a spell on the classic pumpkin decorating tradition by using some Arteza Premium Acrylic Paints to add a spooky touch. Read the full post to find out how we created a stylish Halloween pumpkin that will be the envy of all the witches in the neighborhood.
No carving necessary! To start off, you’ll need to use a base color of Arteza Premium Acrylic Paints. We picked white to give our pumpkin a shocking ghost effect. Using a sponge applicator, evenly apply the paint over the whole pumpkin (including the stem) in smooth strokes. Make sure not to leave any orange showing. Let this dry before moving on.
It’s all in the details! Now you’ll need to draw out your design. Want to put a cute or ghoulish phrase? Or would you rather leave out words and choose a spooky image instead? You could also go traditional and design your very own jack-o-lantern face! The possibilities here are endless. Once you know what you’d like to have on your pumpkin, draw it out with a fineliner pen.
Now for the finishing touches. Fill in the spooky design you created with the fineliner pen using black acrylic paint and an Arteza Detail Paint Brush. This is where your “spooktacular” design will truly shine. Make sure that you’re painting in all of the spaces to guarantee a seamless effect on your creation. Let this dry so you can avoid smudging.
Choosing painting over carving will give your pumpkin design the longevity it deserves. With its long-lasting color, Arteza Premium Acrylic Paints will guarantee that you can have your decoration up for the entire month of October. You can either leave the pumpkin inside or outside; the durable nature of the acrylic paints provides a perfect weather-resistant barrier that gives you versatility in your pumpkin placement. We’d personally suggest placing your masterpiece on your porch. This way you can broadcast to witches everywhere that you’re open to receiving an abundance of magical candy this holiday season. Happy Halloween!
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Start your sketch by drawing a circle on the right portion of your paper. Then, draw a smaller oval at the top of the sheet, this will be your witch’s head. Sketch out two lines that meet on top of the circle, forming an A shape—this will be the witch’s hat. Next create lines to symbolize your witch’s arms and legs. Once you feel everything is in the right place, refine the shapes further; create lines that cut off the extra curve of the oval. Add small triangles as placeholders for the witch’s hands and feet. Also add the two triangles to finish off the bottom of the witch’s hat.
Add rounded hair under the hat, then add more detail to the witch’s nose, hands, coat, boots, mouth, and eyes. Draw a collar and three buttons on the dress. Draw a cauldron to the left of your witch, directly under her hand. The bottom of your cauldron should be on the same level as the witch’s left leg.
Draw a roaring fire in the center of the cauldron. Add a whimsical smoke cloud coming from the cauldron. Draw a laden in the witch’s right hand. After outlining your drawing, erase any unneeded lines with a kneaded eraser.
Time to add color to this very happy witch! Add the squeeze of the following colors to your painting palette: Pearl Apricot (A701), Pearl White Rose (A700), Pearl Emerald Green (A708), Pearl Lavender (A706), and Pearl Gray (A711). Mix Pearl White Rose (A700) with Pearl Apricot (A701) then use this color to paint the witch’s dress. Using the mixture of Pearl Lavender (A706) and Pearl White Rose (A700), color the witch’s coat. Then, mix Pearl Coral (A705) with Pearl White Rose (A700); use this color to paint the witch’s stockings.
Mix Pearl White Rose (A700) with Pearl Gray (A711) together, then use that color to paint the hat and boot of your witch. Add a touch more of the Pearl White Rose (A700) to this color before painting the witch’s hair. Mix Pearl Emerald Green (A708), Pearl Apricot (A701), and Pearl White Rose (A700) to use to color the witch's face and hands. Color the ladle with Bronze (A703). Use Pearl Coral (A705) and Pearl White Rose (A700) to paint the witch’s mouth. Mix Pearl Apricot (A701) with Pearl Lavender (A706) to shadow the right portion of the witch’s dress. Then, use Pearl Lavender (A706) to cast a shadow on the coat.
Using the color made from mixing Pearl Coral (A705) and Pearl Lavender (A706) create a shadow on the legs of the witch. Use Gold (A702) to paint the buckle on your witch’s boots and the ribbon on her hat. Color the collar and buttons on the dress with Pearl Gray (A711). Mix Pearl Cerulean Blue (A707) with Pearl Lavender (A706), then use this color to paint stripes on the witch’s coat. Paint polka dots on the dress with the color made from mixing Pearl Cerulean Blue (A707) with Pearl White Rose (A700).
Paint stripes on the witch’s stockings with Pearl White Rose (A700). Mix Pearl Bubblegum Pink (A704), Pearl Cerulean Blue (A707), and Pearl Lavender (A706); then use this color to paint additional stripes on the witch’s coat. Outline the witch’s hair, mouth, nose, and eyes with Pearl Gray (A711). Mix Pearl Coral (A705) and Pearl Lavender (A706); use this color to paint the shadow inside the witch’s mouth. Then paint two white teeth inside the mouth. Finish the witch off by painting cuffs and trimmings to the coat with Gold (A702).
Now onto painting the cauldron! Mix Bronze (A703) with Pearl White Rose (A700); then use this color to paint the entire cauldron, with the exception of the fire in the middle and where the potion will come from, which you will paint Pearl Emerald Green (A708). Use Pearl Emerald Green (A708) mixed with Pearl White Rose (A700) to paint the cloud of smoke—remember to leave a few areas white for contrast. Then paint the fire using Pearl Apricot (A701).
Mix Bronze (A703) with Pearl Gray (A711) to add shadows to the top edge of the cauldron. Paint the inside of your fire Pearl Coral (A705), then add Gold (A702) over the direct middle portion of the fire’s flame. Mix Pearl Emerald Green (A708) and Pearl White Rose (A700) with Pearl Cerulean Blue (A707); use this color to paint the shadows in the cloud of smoke. Then, using a thin brush, use this color to add rhythmic lines that dance around the witch and her cauldron. Paint stones to symbolize a ground beneath the witch and her cauldron using Pearl Gray (A711) mixed with Pearl White Rose (A700).
To finish off your magical painting, add stars of varying sizes with the color Gold (A702). Then use Pearl Gray (A711) to add some crumbs coming from the witch’s hand into her cauldron. Use Gold (A702) to paint the soles of the witch’s boots.
Voila! Great work!
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Today we’re going to show you six steps to follow to create a detailed drawing of Dracula using Arteza’s EverBlend Art Markers Set of 120. Before we start creating, let’s take a moment to acknowledge the history of Count Dracula. While Dracula is a purely fictional character, he was named (by author Bram Stoker) after a real person who had a taste for blood: Vlad the Impaler; also known as Vlad III, Prince of Wallachia and Vlad Dracula. Stoker’s 1897 novel “Dracula” is rumored to have been inspired by a nightmare. Stroker actually started writing “Dracula” right after Jack the Ripper made headlines in 1890—talk about spooky! Well, now that we know a bit more about the history of “Dracula”, let’s draw a portrait of the world’s most famous vampire!
To begin we’re going to draw a very basic sketch. On a sheet of paper start by drawing a circle, to represent Dracula’s head. Then, sketch out a triangle to represent the bottom portion of his long face. Sketch out the neck and shoulders, then the axis where his eyes will be drawn in later. Next, lightly sketch where his facial features will sit with basic shapes—draw the eyes, temples, nose, mouth, eyebrows, and jawline.
Bring more detail to his eye area, nose, hair, hairline, ear, and bone structure. Take the time to really detail Dracula. Once you’re satisfied with this preliminary sketch, we can move on to turning this sketch into a drawing!
Fun Fact: There are at least 60 movies based on Bram Stoker’s character Count Dracula, however, he is reported to make an appearance in more than 200 films!
Time to work on turning this average-looking man into Dracula! Start by drawing his shirt, brooch, collar, and fangs. Be sure to add his iconic hairline as well.
Fun Fact: The working title for the novel “Dracula” was “The Undead”.
Once you’re feeling confident with your sketch, outline all the important lines then erase the rest. We recommend using a kneaded eraser to then lighten the saturation of your graphite marks. Now your drawing is ready to be colored!
Fun Fact: The name “Dracula” actually means “dragon” or “devil”.
Use Pearl (A751) to paint over Dracula’s entire face, ear, and neck, except for his eyes and fangs. Then, use Glacier Blue (A251) to color his shirt. Color the interior of his collar, his brooch, and his eyeballs with Tomato Red (A414). Color his hair with Stormy Gray (A156). Now that we’ve got our basic coloring down, we’re ready to add shadows and details!
Fun Fact: “Nosferatu” (1922) was the first film depiction of Dracula.
Detail Dracula’s face, ear, and neck using Blush Gray (A752), Stone Gray (A753), Fossil Gray (A754), Concrete Gray (A755), Brown Gray (A757), and Lava Gray (A759). This collection of warm gray tones will assist you in bringing this Dracula portrait to life! Start with the lightest shades, then work your way up gradually, one layer at a time, to create the desired results. Put an emphasis on the shadows and concave parts of his face and neck by creating shadows with depth.
Draw Dracula’s pupils with Deep Blue Gray (A158), then color his eyeballs with Coral (A416), Tomato Red (A414), and Ruby Red (A411). Use shades of gray to add shadows to his eyes. Add highlights to the lower lash lines and pupils with a white gel pen.
Next, add color to Dracula’s shirt with Glacier Blue (A251), Powder Blue (A253), and Ocean Blue (A255). Add extra detail to his accessories with Tomato Red (A414). Add more dimension and depth to Dracula’s hair using Deep Blue Gray (A158) and Black Noir (A5000)—be sure to leave a zigzag stripe through his hair to resemble shine/a highlight.
Outline his collar using dark gray shades and Black Noir (A5000). Give your Dracula a bit of flare by drawing bats inside his collar using Ruby Red (A411). Finish off by adding wrinkles around Dracula’s lips and adding any remaining shadows and highlights you find necessary.
Wow! What a spooky-looking Dracula portrait, right in time for Halloween! Celebrate the spookiest time of the year by creating more monster portraits with this EverBlend Art Markers Set of 120. The wide selection of colors featured is suitable for creating any creepy character imaginable! Draw everything from witches to zombies, and everything in between with our EverBlend Art Markers Set of 120. Be sure to check back for even more how-to blogs and YouTube videos exploring all of the ways you can express yourself with our Premium EverBlend Art Markers!
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